In early 2016, one of my colleagues at PSI was headed to India for his fourth trip to the Lonar crater. At about 2 km across and 50,000 years old (*), this is one of the better-preserved craters on Earth. It's some 500 km from Mumbai, accessible by a flight to Aurangabad and a three-hour drive. Shawn flew there from the US and spent a week collecting rocks.
By coincidence, one of HH's colleagues in Mumbai has a close connection to the crater: her father, Dan Milton, was one of the geologists from the USGS who came out in the 1960s and 1970s to do the initial surveys of the site. With his daughter and new grand-daughter in India, and the irresistable temptation of a Scrabble tournament in Bangalore, Dan couldn't stay away any longer, and planned a trip to coincide with Shawn's. I heard that Beth was headed out too, so I too was unable to resist, and joined them all for a few days of crater exploration.
The crater is off the regular tourist route through India (Lonely Planet has only a few sentences), but worth a trip even if you're not a geologist. The attraction is not just the lake, but the set of more than a dozen intact rock-built Hindu temples that have been built around the lake's rim. Some of these date back close to 1000 years. Most of them are in good shape (in some cases reconstructed), although some have fallen down and are now piles of beautifully carved rocky blocks with peacocks, elephants, and dancing ladies.
In the past the lakebed has been used for agriculture... even a decade ago, there were banana farms in the crater itself, and people living there. Most of this has moved out now, but there is still one large house / temple / farm on the lake's edge.
The easiest lodging option is the government-run MTDC hotel. There's no visitor center or map, but I've put one sketch from a paper below. The town is also worth a visit. Our guide Anand Mishra knows the crater and the area well, and has worked with Shawn on many of his trips here.
Also check out someone else's trip to the crater during the Navratri festival -- beautiful photos and a lot more people and bananas than we saw in January.
(*) Shawn says the erosion makes him think it's closer to 500,000 years.
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| Check out that sign! The crater is not a major tourist attraction, here we are. |
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| We're staying at the single hotel near the crater, which is a government-run operation, barely visible at far left. The sign and the hotel are the only tourist amenities that have been built here. Tripadvisor's reviews aren't exactly glowing ("Unimpressed but no real choice"), but where else can you sleep on a crater rim and get three meals of dal and pakora, all for $20/night? |
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| First thing on the agenda: walk to the crater floor, of course! It's about 1 km down to the lake. Dan goes down with our guide Anand. |
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| The crater is somewhat eroded, but still unmistakably an impact. |
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| Down to the crater floor, Dan takes a break in one temple. |
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| And our guide gives a history lesson. There are over a dozen temples here. Most are from the 1100-1500 era. You can see one of the idols in the temple behind him. |
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| A geologist never goes without that rock hammer! |
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| Check out that impact melt glass that Shawn's come across! |
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| Some awesome samples. |
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| Testing a few basalts... |
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| Across the lake... |
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| Walking along the edge, another temple. |
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| Hmm, what's inside this one? |
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| Anand goes in. We hear flapping... |
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| Holy moly! Look at those bats! And not just the ones that are flying... there must be another 200 bats hanging to the ceiling here. |
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| Bats... and check out those amazing carvings too. They're extremely well preserved. Note the two elephants at the center, above the doorway. |
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| "I WILL NOT DO THAT AGAIN!" |
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| There are a dozen mostly-intact temples around the lake, and remnants of more. |
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| Looks like this temple (adjacent to the one above) has had some reconstruction. |
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| Another temple part -- exposed for the first time in Anand's 100+ trips around the lake. |
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| Leopard poop! Looks like that leopard has eaten some tasty boar. |
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| Beth checks out one more temple! |
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| Wow -- looks like a game board, kind of like this one we saw in South Africa? |
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| Shongololo! |
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| Finishing our walk around the lake edge, we climb some steps to the largest temple complex. |
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| Everyone uses that water! |
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| Back on the rim with Shawn, we take a few photos. |
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| Photobomb by Artie! |
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| "When I saw that impactor coming in..." |
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| Artie is also enjoying his first trip to an impact crater! |
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| As is Catherine. |
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| I take a few hours and wander into the town of Lonar, about 1 km down the road. |
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| Beautiful goats!! |
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| Pigs doing what they do. |
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| Some laundry. |
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| These women were in front ouf their house. You can see the wood stacked up -- all gathered that day for burning, and one of the big reasons for the winter smog cloud that sits over all of India. |
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| Anand runs into me, and we get on his motorbike to go into town. His brother runs a sugar-cane juice stall. And we see his mom. |
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| He takes me to one of the (non-meteoritic) temples in town, where he is usually goes. |
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| And we're about to head back to Aurangabad! |
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| One last view of the crater, seen from... |
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| ... the somewhat shaky observation tower. |
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| At the Aurangabad airport, there is a publicly viewable complaint book. One flyer is clearly not satisfied with the amenities available. |
Last modified 04 Sep 2023