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A bit of coffee. During the night we were joined by our two assigned escorts, who'd driven up from Cape Town. This is Eugene.

"And I must tell you one thing. We are not security guards. We are personal protection officers. I spent eight years working on oil tankers passing through Somalia, fending off pirates. I've worked in the Middle East, in Iraq, in central Africa, in Angola. Security guards? Those are the guys at shopping malls."